Welcome to The Savoy!
People often think of London as a city dominated by traffic and the tube, but there are many really pleasant opportunities to stroll along large parts of the city while taking in some of the sights. If you’ve got time, stamina- and the weather- on your side, then a few hours’ strolling one of the most beautiful, historic and enigmatic of all the world’s cities is well worth the effort.
One I discovered not so long ago began at the Houses of Parliament, considered by many to be the finest example of a gilded pig’s trough anywhere in Europe. From there, carry on down to the Thames riverside walkway, and follow the line of the river on a route that will ultimately take you all the way to the Tower of London.
On the opposite bank, the skyline is dominated by the London Eye. Lambeth Palace still looks exactly the same as it would have done to the likes of Thomas More. Stroll past the relatively new, hugely evocative Battle of Britain Memorial, and you’ll also see the enigmatic Egyptian Sphinx, the first place in London where German bombers actually struck back in 1917. It still bears the shrapnel marks from a near miss to this day.
If you fancy a break or just a drink overlooking the river, walk aboard the old Tattershall Castle, a former paddle steamer now serving as a floating pub/restaurant, now permanently tethered to the river bank. It has no shortage of outdoor seating, and it’s a pretty sweet spot on a warm summer day from which to watch all the small craft and excursion boats that scurry up and down the ancient waterway.
The Tattershall Castle
Moving on, you’ll find the world famous, iconic St. Paul’s Cathedral is just a short diversion uphill. It’s not far, and worth it just to contemplate the soaring cupola of Sir Christopher Wren’s most enduring, enigmatic creation.
Heading back towards the river, after passing the soaring, arrow like, steel and glass expanse of The Shard, you’ll encounter the petrified, camouflaged bulk of HMS Belfast, shackled to the same mooring she has occupied since 1971. Belfast is the only major surviving warship from World War Two and, with her forward pair of triple gun turrets swung round at an angle and her brace of jaunty, graceful funnels, she makes for quite a striking sight. Behind her, you’ll get your first glimpse of Tower Bridge, looming up in the not too far distance. Just keep heading in that same direction.
You’ll now encounter the historic, blood splattered old gargoyle otherwise known as the Tower of London. You can pay the £20 entrance fee and get the traditional Beefeater tour of the place if you want but, if that’s too much of a cut, simply stroll around the perimeter of the grim, gloomy old battlements, and you’ll gain a sense of the dread and awe that this place inspired in everyone from Guy Fawkes to Catherine Howard. It’s impressive rather than beautiful, but it remains a true London landmark.
Tower Bridge
OK, you’ve done great so far. You could honourably stop here and call it a day. Or, you could backtrack a little bit, and give yourself a little treat. After all that hard work, you deserve it.
Take a slow stroll up from the Embankment up along Villiers Street, turn left toward Charing Cross on the Strand, and you’ll find yourself confronting one of the most famous entrances of any hotel in the world.
The Savoy.
It’s lavish, legendary, and suffused with memories of famous past guests such as Oscar Wilde, but this beautiful, landmark monument to unashamed style and luxury is fresh from a two year, multi million pound facelift that has carefully showcased the best of the past glamour, while giving the old lady a smart, contemporary sense of luxe.
You could have afternoon tea here with all the trimmings, but my personal recommendation is to try one of the Apple Martinis in the legendary American Bar. Cheap? Hell, no. But this is The Savoy. After a five star walk-a-thon, you deserve a five star reward. And yes, the experience is worth the price. You’re like L’Oreal- you are so worth it.
The Tower of London
If you’re inclined to culture rather than cocktails, you could wander from here up towards Trafalgar Square, and enjoy the glut of Rubens, Van Dycks and Renoirs on display in the National Gallery. Entrance is free, though donations are encouraged. You could quite easily spend several hours just drifting from one gallery to another in this beautiful building, but be aware that it’s likely to be very busy.
From here, it’s a short stroll to such attractions as Covent Garden. Piccadilly Circus, Leicester Square, the theatre district, Chinatown and, of course, Soho. It’s a teeming, thriving mass of amazing, sometimes addled humanity at any time of the day or night, and it’s all truly exhilarating. That is, assuming you have any stamina left to enjoy it after all that walking.
And it is also another side of London that is pretty much outside of the remit of this piece. We’ll look at that aspect of the capital in another piece in the future.
if you’re going to do this walk, make sure you’ve got footwear that’s good for strolling. If you stick to the riverbank route, be aware that you’ll find a few flights of steps to navigate both up and down, especially as you get closer to the Tower of London itself. And, above all, just kick back, and enjoy the sights, sounds and sensations of strolling this constantly changing, truly amazing city.
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